The main function of silicones in cosmetics is as an emollient. They provide a protective layer to the skin and retain moisture. They dissolve lipophilic active ingredients and crystalline UV filters and disperse pigments.
Emollients play an important role in determining the correct skin feel of cosmetic products, and each emollient has its own skin feel behavior that provides a unique skin feel.
Cetiol C5 (INCI: Cocooctanoic acid) from BASF has a skin feel similar to cyclomethicone, supports the incorporation of powders, enhances the solubility of crystalline UV filters and promotes oil deposition from body wash to skin.
Cetiol CC (INCI: dioctyl carbonate) is described as a versatile dry emollient with good pH stability, fragrance and propellant solubility, making it suitable for antiperspirant and deodorant applications.
BASF’s Cetiol Ultimate (INCI: Undecane, Tridecane) is described as an ultra-light, non-polar and volatile hydrocarbon alternative to cyclomethicone, with improved performance compared to cyclomethicone in sunscreen formulations and have a positive impact on stability.
Seppic markets a range of alkanes as alternatives to volatile silicone oils under the trade names Emosmart and Emogreen, which were introduced in cosmetic products at In-cosmetics Global 2019.
They are readily biodegradable, inert and non-polar, and not sensitive to oxidation, pH changes or redox media. As texturizers, they have different sensory effects depending on the grade: Emosmart L15 presents a fresh sensory and “bare skin” feel. Emosmart C28 has a comforting and nourishing effect; Emogreen features longer play time.
