Another important consumer preference factor in the color cosmetics market is creating interesting and engaging textures and feelings while continuing to respect the Clean Beauty lifestyle. As mentioned earlier, esters are the starting materials for polyester and are benign ingredients that are safe for humans and the environment. SustOleo TL (Trilaurin) is a known ester that was redeveloped by INOLEX based on the 12 principles of green chemistry. Glycerin and lauric acid are both derived from coconut oil, resulting in a non-palmitate form of laurate
Trilaurin creates an interesting texture and feel in a water-based formula, providing a quick melt-on-the-skin feel with a slight cooling effect. The afterfeel has a distinct powdery character, similar to the sensory effects of some silicone elastomers. This dual melting and powdery experience can be attributed to SustOleo TL’s unique melting profile. Conventional esters and oils have different melting temperatures as measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Traditional butter can exhibit different melting temperatures or melting temperature ranges. Trilaurin has a unique melting curve with two distinct melting temperatures: 29.9°C and 43.9°C. This is characteristic of a polymorphic crystal structure (two distinct crystalline phases) that creates a unique sensory profile in a formulation. 5 As a result, Trilaurin is used to create new formula textures and feels:
Cool Feeling Air Cream that looks squirting and airy, provides a cooling sensation when wiping and finishes with a velvety smooth finish.
The solid foundation stick melts quickly and glides effortlessly on skin, leaving a smooth, satin finish.
An overnight renewing serum that applies with delicate softness and ends with a velvety touch.
